Why have more than a dozen
Washington area chefs equip the kitchen with the
high-tech $3000 machine that makes sorbet? There are
efficient frozen dessert machines on the market,
suitable for use in the restaurant $600. Still, chefs
are willing to plunk down three big ones for the Swiss
made Pacojet.
With the matter of making our selection of sorbet's
as airy and light as possible, ofsays Patrick O Connel,
chef and co owner of the Inn at Little washington in
washington, Va.
For O' Conell, the recipient of the 2001 James Beard
Foundation Outstanding Chef's award, the pacojet is the
ideal machine for creating his dresses called painters
palate of sorbets- thumb Size portions of barely
sweetened, pureed fresh fruits, which, when sampled from
left to right, escalate in pure flavour intensity.
Chef Gary Fick spotted the diminutive Pacojet in O'
Connells kitchen and ordered one for himself. Now every
night he pacotizes sorbet in flavours such as Key lime
and blue berry lavender.
A heck of an investment but Pacojet is an incredible
machine, says Fick, executive chef at crossing at Casey
Jones in La Palata. Its fast, easy, durable.
The principal parts of the Pacojet are a base unit
equipped with the motor; a one-quarter quart chromium
steel beaker; and a titanium coated blade. Most ice
cream or sorbet makers required a chef to blend
Ingredients before they are placed in the machine, where
they are churned and frozen. But with the Pacojet, a
chef merely adds the raw Ingredients (for example,
chunks of mango, water and pinch of sugar) to the beaker
then puts the beaker in the freezer for 24 hours.
When it's time to make sorbet, he puts the frozen
beaker in the Pacojet and pushes of button. The
high-speed blade shaves and blends one portion from the
frozen Ingredients, leaving the rest of the Ingredients
ready for the next order. A chef can have a dozen
beakers frozen, ready and waiting, and produce a rainbow
of sorbets at a moment's notice.
Developed in the early 1980s by Swiss engineer
Wilhelm Maurere, the Pacojet was initially manufactured
in 1992 for the European market as a multifunctional
device for mousses, soups, sauces, fillings and frozen
desserts. In 1996 the Pacojet was test marketed in the
United States. Worldwide 10,000 units have been for
sold, in estimated 250 in North America. Owners are
primarily restaurants and hotels, but there are notable
exceptions.
Hollywood stars and other prominent personalities
have got Pacojet is for their own kitchen is most
employees a private chef, but they have requested
anonymity, which we endeavour respect, said Pacojet
managing director Gunter Scheible via email.
Washington area chefs who have invested in the
Pacojet love this machine.
Chef Gerard Madani's rich bitter chocolate Valrhona
sorbet, served in the Willard room of the Willard
Intercontinental Hotel downtown, is spun to perfection
in a Pacojet
The Pacojet is the only piece of high-tech equipment
in Gerard Pangaud's kitchen. Other than the Pacojet all
I have is pots and pans and a stove, says Pangaud, chef
owner of Gerard's place , and intimate, 50 seats French
restaurant on Mcpherson Square.
What's really extraordinary about this machine is how
it lets you to do unsweetened or barely sweetened
sorbets, said Pangaud, explaining that the Pacojet
eliminates the problem of balancing the sugar content of
sorbets that makes them either too Icy or mush.
For his baked tomato dessert Pangaud starts, one day
in advance, by pressing heirloom tomatoes and basil
leaves into the Pacojet steel beaker, adding olive oil,
tomato juice and a little salt and pepper. The beaker is
then stored for 24 hours in a freezer at minus one
degree Fahrenheit.
At service time,Pangaud places a wedge of green Zebra
tomato beside a baked, baseball Size yellow golden
jubilee tomato that has been stuffed with citrus scented
dried nuts and fruits. Time to Pacotize.
Seconds before the Dish leaves the kitchen the frozen
beaker is inserted into the Pacojet. The high-speed
blade shaves one serving of tomato basil sorbet The unprocessed portion is popped back into the
freezer for later use.
Says Pangaud, who purchased his Pacojet three years
ago. The best thing is that this is a reliable machine.
Nine out of ten times with other machine it is the cooling
system that breaks down. You are already using the frozen
products with the Paco, so there is no problem there.
The restaurant consultant and pastry chef Steve Klc
does not like ice cream and sorbet made with stabilisers-
Ingredients that are often added to an ice cream or
sorbet based to maintain a smooth emulsion. Stabilisers
give a gummy taste in the mouth. Gummy detracts from the
taste of the fruit, says Klc, whose elaborate wedding
cakes can be viewed at www.pastryarts.com
Enter Paco, says Klc who has used the Pacojet to make
an olive oil sorbet, served with grapefruit sections and
fresh basil. You don't need stabilisers. Make your mix.
Freeze it rock solid. Pop in the beaker. Bang. Perfect
sorbet on demand no waste.
Sorbet and ice cream are the most popular uses for
the Pacojet but any quick frozen foods can be pureed to
create soups, sauces and mousse. Quail bones can be
pureed in seconds for a consomme. Whole red chilli
peppers, garlic and shallots are frozen and, on command,
reduced to a paste.
"It declined the living daylight out of stuff like
nothing I'd ever seen". Says Doug Anderson, the new
executive chef of the Four Seasons hotel in Georgetown.
With the Pacojet at his side, Anderson has created nine
infused oils, such as watercress-chive and horseradish,
which are used throughout the menu.
Chef Robert Wiedmaier purchased his Pacojet ten
months ago to take on a variety of tasks " I was
using a traditional meat grinder to make baudin blanc
from chicken, squab and foie gras," says the
Wiedmaier chef and owner of Marcel's in the West End.
"But the Pacojet saves me hours of work because you
don't have to pass any thing through a tamis (a fine
cloth strainer) In the end you get a superior product."
With the Pacojet he blends Salmon , Whitefish,
scallops for a salmon souffle. He takes lobster shells
and butter, grinds them into a paste to incorporate into
a sauce. "It makes it is so fine."
Says Weidmaier " More Chefs have to experiment,
try new things and get the Paco out of the pastry
shop."
You can see many indicative recipes at the link below
http://www.pacojet.com/html/en/pacojet.htm
In
India, Thakar Equipment Company are marketing this
wonderful machine which has been featured in the
Washington Post's Food Section. "Pacotize" has
become a verb in a Chef's Dictionary.